Comments for Traditional Skills - David Sims

Comment on Rhododendron Wood Analysis – Safe or Not? by Rick Schuman

Rick Schuman — Thu, 16 May 2013 09:37:13 +0000

The biggest problem I found with Rhododendron is getting it to split. A maul and fro is useless and an 8 pound splitting maul just bounces off. All this was after I found out how actually low the toxicity is in the wood as opposed to the leaves and flowers.

Comment on Rhododendron Wood Analysis – Safe or Not? by Rick Schuman

Rick Schuman — Tue, 14 May 2013 00:42:50 +0000

I got some Rhododendron a couple of weeks ago. Although it was not freshly cut, it was still quite green. I did the diligence as far as toxicity. Nothing to worry about there as I am sure no one is going to actually eat the wood itself. Splitting the wood into usable billets is the real deterant. I usually use a maul and fro to work stuff up. No joy with rhod. I even tried an 8 pound steel splitting maul and it just bounced off. I did manage to turn some (on a spring pole lathe) and it worked quite as well as I expected. NIce texture and color. Not sure what I will do with the rest of what I have.

Comment on Gransfors Bruks Swedish Carving Axe by Dave

Dave — Thu, 25 Apr 2013 00:49:45 +0000

Yep I am not a fan of rivets either. I will be making a new sheath for it when I get the time. For now this will have to do.

Right now I am using this axe for Swedish bowl carving. I will post some progress of several bowls I am working on right now when I get a chance.

Thanks –Dave

Comment on Gransfors Bruks Swedish Carving Axe by Dave

Dave — Thu, 25 Apr 2013 00:45:33 +0000

Hey Joe

Sounds cool. I would like to see the carving axe when you get it. I would also be interested who the maker is.

I think you made a good choice on the Boys Axe. I just bought another axe by Council Tool, The 3.5# Jersey with 32″ handle. It is pretty nice as well. How do you like your Boys Axe?

I am working on the pole lathe post as well and will get it posted in the near future. Keep watching for it.

Take Care — Dave

Comment on Gransfors Bruks Swedish Carving Axe by Dave

Dave — Thu, 25 Apr 2013 00:39:40 +0000

Hey Andrew

I notice that the steel of the HK does seem to stay sharp longer. It also seems that despite how sharp I get the SCA it does not cut as well as the HK even thought the SCA is a fair bit heavier. I am going to flatten the left bevel even more on my SCA and see if this helps. For instance the HK would take off nice long shavings when holding the head of the axe and using it as a knife while the SCA doe not do this very well. It is handy to do this when bowl carving.

Good Luck. –Dave

Comment on Gransfors Bruks Swedish Carving Axe by michaellangford2012

michaellangford2012 — Sat, 13 Apr 2013 23:03:02 +0000

Those rivets in the way of that nice sharp edge! I much prefer hand sewn sheaths with an extra thickness of leather in way of the edge. What will it make, spoons or beams?

Comment on Gransfors Bruks Swedish Carving Axe by joe

joe — Tue, 09 Apr 2013 01:50:38 +0000

Hey Dave,

Thanks for the great review. I can’t wait to read about the pole lathe. That is on my summer project list. I really want to get into some bowl making.

I think I mentioned when I commented/asked questions on another one of your reviews that the SCA is a bit too heavy for me, but it’s a really nice tool. I love the shape of the head and handle. I would just tire a bit too quickly using it.

I took your advice and ordered the Council Boys Axe for heavier work. I’ve also got a Carving Axe being made by a blacksmith in Wisconsin. It should be on its way to me this week. I can’t wait. I was able to try out one of their prototypes and really loved it. I’ll keep you posted.

cheers,

joe

Comment on Gransfors Bruks Swedish Carving Axe by Andrew ren

Andrew ren — Tue, 09 Apr 2013 01:11:00 +0000

Thanks Dave for this detailed review.
I agree with you that the SCA does need some work before it gets its points. I also followed Drew’s advice to flatten the inner bevel. It bits into the wood much deeper. I think that’s a good thing to certain degree. I won’t flatten the inner side anymore…
I also beeswax the sheath right away just give it a much tougher protection.
I do noticed by the end of the day, the SCA needs some sharpening action. I work on canadian maple the most. The middle lower section of the cutting edge does get dull to my standard. I have to spend some time to make it sharp again to say the least. I am wondering how the steel on HK axe will hold I guess the only to find it out is to order one myself:) but as I mentioned before, Drew did say the hk steel is better. I got email back from hk they said its a steel has 0.6% carbon.

Again. Thanks a lot for the efforts you put in this review.

Best,

Andrew

Comment on Hans Karlsson Sloyd Axe by Dave

Dave — Tue, 09 Apr 2013 00:41:07 +0000

Hey Andrew. I just got up a review on the GB SCA today. Go check it out and tell me what you think. I hope that you get a good axe and enjoy using it. They really are a wonderful tool.

Sorry I did not get it published sooner, but I am operating off a tablet at the moment which is much more difficult to work on for doing blog posts.

Take care,
Dave

Comment on Hans Karlsson Sloyd Axe by Andrew ren

Andrew ren — Fri, 22 Mar 2013 22:38:27 +0000

Thanks Dave for the replies.
As I was waiting for your side by side review, I pulled the trigger ordered an even grinned SCA. Even after a phone conversation with Drew @ country workshop. He did mention that as far as the quality of the steel is concerned, he thinks the hk are superior. It kind of make sense, as the GB uses a special steel close to 1055 and hk uses some hard wearing carbon steel… I am not a expert. But I sharp the axe at the end of day anyway and the SFA just need a brief touch and that is about it, for same reason I got the roselli carpenter knife instead of their UHC version, its just easier to maintain to fun to play with… I prefer the heckry handle on SCA, like the overall shape of it. The hk looks too symmetrical to me.
I guess the original issue you had with SCA could be a grinding-reprofile thing? Drew mentioned that a flatten inner side is needed even on a even-grinded SCA.

Can’t wait to see these two reviews. SCA first then SCA/hk….

Cheers

Andrew